Eater’s Top 38: Who Gets Left Behind?

Last Friday night, the kitchen at Joe’s Diner on 14th Street hummed with the familiar chaos of a New York City dinner service. Maria, the line cook, was furiously chopping onions, her eyes watering not just from the pungency but from the thought of another 12-hour shift. Meanwhile, across town, fine dining rooms prepped for an influx of diners eager to experience the latest ‘notable’ restaurant list published by Eater.

For many, Eater’s list of 38 notable NYC restaurants is the culinary equivalent of receiving an Oscar nod. It’s a coveted role call that influences reservations and can elevate a restaurant’s reputation overnight. But what does it truly mean to be deemed ‘notable’ in this sprawling metropolis, and perhaps more importantly, who gets left behind?

The list itself is a snapshot, a moment in the ever-evolving dining scene of New York. It spans various cuisines and corners of the city, from upscale Manhattan dining rooms to hidden gems in outer boroughs. The inclusion of diverse dining options is commendable, yet the criteria remain opaque. What exactly qualifies as ‘notable’? Is it the innovative menu, the chef’s pedigree, or the restaurant’s geographical location?

The decision to spotlight certain establishments while excluding others isn’t just about taste — it’s about influence. Eater holds considerable sway over the dining habits of New Yorkers and tourists alike. A spot on the list can mean the difference between a bustling dining room and an empty one. This power, while wielded with the intent of showcasing culinary excellence, inherently draws lines between the ‘deserving’ and the ‘overlooked’.

In a city where the cost of living squeezes every corner of life, these distinctions can have profound implications. Consider the small family-run eateries that don’t have the PR budgets or star chefs to catch the eye of list-makers. Their absence from such lists doesn’t mean they lack value or excellence but rather, they operate in a parallel universe where the rules of recognition are different.

As patrons flock to the latest additions on Eater’s list, it’s vital to remember the unlisted — the diners like Joe’s where the soul of the city’s culinary heartbeat resides. These restaurants feed the workers who power New York, the chefs who might not have a Michelin star but whose hands tell a thousand stories of resilience.

Take, for instance, the story of Sam, a taxi driver who ends his night shift with a bowl of congee at a Chinatown spot that’s been quietly serving the community for decades. Or consider the immigrant-owned delis scattered across the boroughs, each plate a testament to the flavors of home, often cooked by the very hands that greet you at the door.

In a city of lists and rankings, there’s an inherent risk of valuing only what is deemed worthy by a select few. It’s time for Eater and other such platforms to rethink their criteria, to broaden the scope beyond what’s trending or ‘of the moment’, and to include voices from the unseen kitchens that truly keep New York running.

As autumn settles in, casting a golden hue over the city, it’s an apt moment to ponder the stories and places that remain unsung. What if ‘notability’ extended beyond the plate to include sustainability efforts, employee treatment, or community impact? What if, instead of a numbered list, we celebrated the symphony of flavors and voices that make New York unique?

The demand is clear: Let’s re-evaluate what it means to celebrate food in New York. Because, at the end of the day, every kitchen deserves a little taste of the spotlight.

— Sal Brennan · Columnist