Last night, sitting at a family-run Dominican spot in Inwood, I overheard a conversation that has become all too familiar. A local lamented how a new article had come out, profiling the latest ‘it’ spots in New York City dining. The restaurant wasn’t on it. I wasn’t surprised—it never is. But as I sat at the table with a tender, comforting plate of mangú con los tres golpes (mashed plantains with eggs, cheese, and salami), I couldn’t help but feel the frustration simmering within the quietude of a place bustling with rich stories and flavors.
In its new list of ’38 Noted New York City Restaurants,’ Eater paints a culinary map that’s as much about exclusion as it is about celebration. The list, while showcasing a spectrum of cuisines, fails spectacularly in one critical aspect—it overlooks the heart and soul of the city’s eateries: the immigrant kitchens and family-run institutions that have fed New Yorkers for decades.
Let’s be clear: this is not just an oversight, but a glaring omission that speaks volumes about the priorities in our culinary media landscape. When publications like Eater, with their vast readership, choose to spotlight the already lauded or the newly gentrified, they ignore the rich culture and history simmering in the outer boroughs. The administration often talks about supporting small businesses and cultural diversity, yet here is a prime example of a media entity doing just the opposite by ignoring ground-level authenticity in favor of headline-grabbing names.
The irony here is thick—much like the velvety jollof rice at a local Bronx Nigerian spot that nobody seemed to care about until a popular food blogger posted a single photo. Suddenly, it was ‘discovered’ by folks who never bothered to appreciate the meticulous layers of flavor built by generations under one roof. Eater’s list functions much the same way, acting as a blueprint for culinary tourists, while leaving the true New Yorkers—those who find themselves in the small, unpretentious community hubs, unrepresented.
But let’s consider the human angle here. It’s a Tuesday, and Maria, a second-generation Yemeni-American chef in Bay Ridge, rises early to prepare for her lunch crowd. Her mother taught her how to make samak mofa on weekends, a spicy Yemeni fish dish that brings together flavors born from migration and adaptation. Maria works tirelessly, not for the prospect of recognition from prestige publications, but from the desire to preserve her family’s legacy and nourish her community. For her, a mention in such a list could mean an influx of new customers, a lifeline for sustainability amidst rising rents and supply costs.
So here’s my demand: Eater—and others like it—should reflect on their influence and expand their horizons to include those who are the true culinary backbone of New York City. Create spaces in your lists and articles for the unsung heroes of the outer boroughs, and make the effort to profile those who have been cooking passionately for decades, unseen and uncelebrated.
If we continue to ignore these vibrant, living histories, we risk eroding the very culture that makes New York City an exceptional dining destination. In the words of a wise cook, often it’s the dishes born in the simplest of kitchens that carry the deepest flavors, resonating with a legacy of love and resilience. Let’s ensure those stories are told.
— Adaeze Okonkwo · Columnist
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the main criticism of Eater’s ’38 Noted New York City Restaurants’ list?
The article criticizes Eater’s list for excluding immigrant and family-run eateries in the outer boroughs, arguing this perpetuates culinary gentrification and erases important community stories.
Who wrote the article criticizing Eater’s restaurant list?
Adaeze Okonkwo is the author of the article.
Which neighborhoods and cuisines does the article highlight as being overlooked?
The article highlights immigrant kitchens in outer boroughs like Inwood and Bay Ridge, mentioning Dominican, Yemeni, and Nigerian restaurants.
What specific dishes are mentioned as examples of overlooked foods?
Specific dishes mentioned include mangú con los tres golpes and Yemeni samak mofa.
How does the article describe the impact of Eater’s list on local communities?
The article argues that Eater’s list acts as a blueprint for culinary tourists and leaves small, community-focused eateries unrepresented, ignoring their cultural and historical significance.
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