Kono’s Yakitori Omakase Highlights Chicken Oyster in Chinatown

Kono, the yakitori-focused restaurant on Bayard Street, is drawing attention for its detailed approach to chicken, specifically the elusive chicken oyster. Chef Atsushi “ATS” Kono leads the kitchen. He is known for his time at Yakitori Torishin and his yakitori pop-up at Hotel 40 Bowery.

On a recent Tuesday evening, diners at Kono moved through a 16-course tasting menu. The meal, priced at $185, includes a sequence of chicken parts grilled over binchotan. The chicken oyster, a small tender cut near the thigh, arrives mid-meal, presented simply on a skewer. Staff say it remains a highlight for regulars and visiting chefs.

Kono’s menu follows a kappa-style format, centered on skewers. Sides are minimal. The focus remains on precise grilling and seasoning. Seating is at the counter, with two seatings nightly. Reservations are recommended, especially during the summer, as weekend slots fill quickly.

The restaurant opened in 2022 and continues to shape Chinatown’s fine dining landscape. Chef Kono’s approach avoids fusion, sticking closely to traditional Japanese yakitori methods. Service reports brisk but measured business during recent weekend nights, with some late seatings extending past 10 p.m.

As temperatures climb, Kono’s intimate dining room offers a retreat from the heat, with the scent of charcoal lingering long after the last skewer is served.