Salt bread, known as shio pan, is drawing attention at bakeries across Manhattan and Queens. At Burrow in Dumbo on Wednesday morning, a line formed before 8 a.m. for the bakery’s salt-flecked loaves. The bread’s appeal is straightforward: a crisp, buttery shell gives way to a soft, flaky interior.
The style originated in Japan, but has been gaining ground in New York’s bakery cases since late summer. At the midtown branch of Paris Baguette, shio pan sells out by lunchtime, according to counter staff. Each roll costs $3.50. The dough is enriched with butter, then finished with a scattering of sea salt before baking.
On Tuesday, staff at L’Albero dei Gelati in Park Slope said customers ask for the bread by name. Some order it alongside sweet pastries, others pair it with soup at lunchtime. The bakery’s manager, Kazuko Ito, said demand has increased since schools reopened in September. “People are looking for something simple and comforting,” she said.
Several bakeries credit social media for the recent interest. Posts featuring the bread’s layered pull-apart crumb and glossy crust have circulated on local TikTok accounts in the last two weeks. At Panya in the East Village, the bread is limited to two pieces per customer during the morning rush.
With autumn routines underway, shio pan has become a regular item in many bakery baskets. Its compact size and modest price point have helped drive weekday sales, according to owners. For now, bakeries say they plan to keep the bread available through the colder months.
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